- Quality Wooden Hutches & Runs. (34)
- Metal Fold Flat Runs, & Sleeping Boxes (27)
- Plastic indoor Cages, Stands, Playpens & more (42)
- Hutch Accessories : Covers, Litter Trays, & Hay Feeders (58)
- Bowls, Bottles,Bottle springs & Bottle accessories. (87)
- Small Animal Feeds, Hay, Dried Grass, Herbs & Cage Bedding. (102)
- Pet Carriers, Pet Blankets, & Beds- Nautral & soft. (45)
- Bunny Jumps, Plastic & Cardboard Tubes,Warrens & Training Harness (29)
- Bunny Hideouts, Houses & Tunnels (49)
- Natural Play Balls & Toys, plus treats, Hampers & Fun (118)
- Pet Treatments, health supplements Plus Dr Squiggles (48)
- Beauty, Grooming Tools & Show Whiteners. (40)
- Storage & pest Solutions, Pet Hygiene, cleaning aids. (41)
- Presents For People Who Love Rabbits (95)
- Rainbow Bridge-Pet Memorials (9)
- What's New (330)
- Mixed Package Deals & Bulk Buys, plus 6 for 5 offers. (37)
- Stock Clearance (12)
- Spot & Red's Featured Products (30)
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| Index : Please click on the section you wish to view. |
Not all the sections below are available yet, If the section headings are highlighted they are working
| | | - Bunny Housing
- Outside Homes
- Inside Bunnies
- Garden Runs
- Setting up your hutch/cage
- Cleaning your hutch
| - A quick guide on what to do when you get your new Rabbit/s home.
- Bonding Two Rabbits together.
| Not all the sections above are available yet, please keep popping back, as I get the time I will added to these. Please remember that I am a hobby business and the care and well being of my own rabbits comes before me adding sections and pages to this website.
If the section headings are high lighted they are working |  |
 | Basic Dietary Guidelines for a Healthy Rabbit | | Feeding your pet Rabbit.
When feeding your rabbit/s, it is important to remember that they do not need a high level of sugar or protein or a large bowl full of food. When feeding a mixed food the rabbit must eat everything that you give it. If you over feed the rabbit it will only pick out its favourite bits and leave everything else and will not be getting a complete diet. Fibre is of the utmost importance to keep your rabbit fit, healthy and using their teeth correctly.
ADULT RABBITS: The basic diet for a healthy adult rabbit should consist of unlimited access to freeze dried grass or/and a good Quality Meadow hay, along with a variety of fresh vegetables (these need to be introduced slowly) and a limited amount of rabbit food every day. A Netherland Dwarf will only need 1.5oz, a Mini Lop 2oz, where as a giant Breed like a French Lop will need 8oz plus.
Obesity is common in pet rabbits, and excessive amounts of food should be avoided. The first, soft stools that a rabbit passes are eaten again (a process called coprophagia). This is thought to supply the rabbit with most of its Vitamin B requirement; it also contains healthy bacteria that the rabbit needs to digest their food. Thus helping to prevent diarrhoea. If a rabbit is over fed they will produce too many of these droppings and will not eat them all, not only are they missing out on the goodness that they provide, but because of the stickiness of this poo it can become stuck around the bottom of the bunny, which can put the bunny at a huge risk of Fly strike which could potential prove to be fatal.
BABY RABBITS: are fed the same as for Adults, apart from fresh vegetables need to be strictly monitored on the effects on the babies tummy, it is best to introduce one vegetable at a time from 14 weeks of age plus. If a high volume of second droppings are being found in the cage, the levels of dried feed must be reduced, it is more important that the baby eats these droppings rather than another huge bowl of feed. Freeze dried grass or/and hay- Timothy or Meadow hay should be available in unlimited quantities to baby rabbits from about 3 weeks of age.
Hay/ freeze dried grass: is crucial to your rabbit's health as it is the main source of fibre/roughage which aids the digestion, helps prevent g.i. stasis and hairballs and it is helpful in keeping your rabbit's teeth in good shape. Grass hays: meadow or Timothy or freeze dried should be available in unlimited quantities to all rabbits at all times
Rabbit food, should always be fresh. Don't buy more than three month's supply at a time or they may get stale and lose nutritional value.
Rabbits rely on a stable population of "good" bacteria in their gut; any changes in dietary intake should be introduced gradually to avoid sudden changes in types of bacteria present, as this can result in diarrhoea. Diarrhoea can kill.
| My Rabbits are feed on my own mix of Rabbit food, along with Millen Munchy Grass and Lovely Green Meadow Hay plus Timothy hay.
| | Millen Rabbit Food & Millen Rabbit Food-Advanced
A complementary food for rabbits, the Advanced has added deodorising yucca extract in the form of a nugget to reduce ammonia levels. This to be fed in conjunction with forage such as clean hay or freeze dried grass, fresh water must be available at all times. Oil 4%, Protein 13%, Fibre 10% +, Ash 5.6%. VitA 1000iu/kg, Vit D3 1400iu/kg, Vit E 40iu/kg, copper 20mg/kg. |  | Millen munchy grass: is a freeze dried grass, made from pure grass with only the water taken out. Protein 15%, Fibre 32%, Oil 2%, Prosphours 4g/kg. Very good for making a rabbit use it's back teeth correctly. This is a natural product which may vary in appearance throughout the season, this does not affect the nutritional value and the Bunnies love it.
|  | Meadow hay: Last years cut, lovely and green, smells great my bunnies love it. Fresh English Meadow Hay I have three types this year from three different counties of the UK. 1kg in weight.
We bag this hay to order, to ensure that it reaches you in tip top condition for you bunny or small pet's enjoyment.
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 | ~The Fibre Four pack~
Designed for bunnies and their back teeth....................
Pack contains a mix of the above. Great for keeping your bunny munching.
800g Millen Munchie Grass.
700g Canadian Timothy Hay.
700g. Meadow Hay-Soft.
700g Meadow Hay-Devon. .
| | Dental Care
We all need to take care of our teeth, but that is especially true in the case of pet rabbits. The most common complaint is overgrown molars and enamel spurs that grow from teeth. These spurs generally develop because rabbits aren't eating enough forage and hay. These naturally-abrasive, fibre-rich foods are important because they wear down the teeth. Rabbits' teeth grow continuously by an astonishing 2mm every week, or 10-12cm every year, a lack of fibre in the diet means that problems can quickly develop. Left untreated, uneven or insufficiently worn molars can lead to secondary complaints. Even if dental disease has already been diagnosed, a correct feeding plan, can aid the chances of recovery and stop problems deteriorating further. So in short lots & lots of Hays & grasses with mix kept at a minimum.
|  Healthy teeth 
Overgrown teeth. | | Water: Clean water must be accessible to rabbits at all times. A sipper water bottle is the best choice because it cannot be contaminated with bedding, food, faeces and urine. Rabbits unfamiliar with a sipper bottle may have to be trained to use it. It is not necessary to add vitamins to the water if the recommended diets are followed. The disadvantages of adding vitamins to the water include; making the water taste disagreeable and promoting bacterial growth. Bio plus can be added to the water when you first bring your pet home, this will help him settle in. Medications can be added to the water but only under the advice of your vet. If you are not sure whether your bunny is drinking, place a small bowl by the rabbit's water bottle. If a rabbit stops drinking, within a couple of days, it will stop eating. So always check that the bottle is working, by flicking the end. A bottle spring is a useful item for holding the bottle on the cage, these fit the smallest of bottles to the largest.
Freezing Water Bottles: I use a product called Vanodine not only does it help to stop the water from freezing, it also stop the bottles from going green in the summer. It keeps the water fresh and clean. it can also if used stronger be used for cage and aerial disinfecting as well as scrubbing out food dishes and litter trays,
An idea is to have two bottles on the go, one on the cage with a bottle cover on, the other indoors, when you go out to check your bunnies you swap the bottles over, the rabbits will drink almost straight away because the water will be at room temperature, which they enjoy, and they will soon learn that when it is cold, mummy or daddy will swap bottles. Or you can mount the bottle inside the cage with the bottle and holder, and then the warmth of the bunnies will stop it freezing. Return to Index | | | 
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| Vaccinations and Health Care. | | Caring for a rabbit should also include vaccinations against Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (VHD) yearly, Myxomatosis twice yearly, and worming twice yearly with Panacur . I use a product called " spot on" every 3 months on my own bunnies this kills haymite, lice plus thread worm keeping their coats in lovely condition.
Neutering of your pets, especially when keeping pairs together is a must, to prevent fighting, un-wanted litters as well as protecting the Female rabbit against the risks of Uterine cancer. More info here.
Viral Haemorrhagic Disease is highly contagious and fatal. The disease is an air born virus. Symptoms of VHD can include lethargy, collapsing, convulsions, lack of co-ordination, paralysis, breathing difficulties, bloody discharge from the nose, jaundice, weight loss, fever and groaning. Rabbits usually die within a 12-36 hours of showing symptoms and there is no cure. However, in some cases infected rabbits may show no symptoms at all and may simply appear to drop dead.
Myxomatosis is a severe viral disease which is transmitted by biting insects such as fleas, mosquitoes, mites, etc. Myxomatosis is most often fatal The symptoms of the classic form Myxomatosis are runny eyes developing into severe conjunctivitis that results in blindness, swollen genitals, swelling in the head, thick pus discharge from the nose, swollen eyes and lumps on the body. Pet rabbits can be, vaccinated against Myxomatosis as young as 6 weeks of age and then every six months. Although vaccinated rabbits may still contract Myxomatosis, the disease is much less severe in vaccinated rabbits and it may simply result in the rabbit being a bit unwell or developing a lump on the skin. So in vaccinated rabbits Myxomatosis is often treatable and but may still be fatal. You can reduce the risks of your pet being infected by biting insects by netting the front of your hutch, by using our lavender products that will deter flying insects, and by keeping your pet's cage clean.
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| | | Worming: Wormer for rabbits, Panacur®Rabbit is an oral paste. As an aid in the control of Encephalitozoon cuniculi and Intestinal worms in rabbits. Easy to use. Ideally you pet should be treated twice a year. One tube will worm two medium sized rabbits. It can lead to convulsions, kidney damage, blindness, ataxia and sudden onset head tilt, cataracts, hind limb paralysis, urinary incontinence and sometimes death if left un-treated. | | Mites, Lice and Fleas
Many small animals become infected with fleas, lice and mites by their own siblings, other animals or even bedding or its surroundings. When rabbits suffer from lice this can lead to the following symptoms, depending on the severity of the infection: itchiness, hair loss, crusts and sometimes skin ulcers. Fleas are generally spread via wild rabbits and they can also bite people. Rabbits can also play host to cat fleas, so look out for these if your rabbits and cats mix. You can treat your pets with Small Animal Insecticidal Spray, or Anti-Parasite Spot On. The living quarters, should also be treated. You can do this by removing all the bedding and using a good disinfectant. Other symptoms are a poor coat, dandruff and eczema. Ear mite infections are far more serious for rabbits. They are common and very contagious. The mite causes serious itchiness, scratching and causes the rabbit to frequently shake and tilt its head. In the longer term, crusts may form in the auditory canal, under which is a bloody, purulent infection. If the infection breaks through to the middle ear and the cerebral membranes, this might lead to problems with balance, convulsions or epilepsy. If your rabbit is suffering from ear mites, you should seek veterinary help. To prevent your rabbit from becoming infected with ear mites, you can keep its ears clean with an Ear Cleaner. You can fight all species of external parasites with Anti Parasite Spot on this is also effective against internal parasites, such as roundworms and whipworms. A pet suffering from worms will lose a lot of weight. Its condition will deteriorate and so will its resistance to other diseases. | Mite Spray
| For Spraying the hutch. | For spraying the hutch | For Ear Mite  | | Fly Strike is particularly nasty condition that can affect rabbits with damp or dirty fur. Green Bottles lay their eggs in the fur, where they hatch into larvae and migrate down into the skin. Not only does this cause distress and discomfort to the rabbit, it can also cause blood-poisoning, which can in some cases be fatal. Fly Guard is an Veterinary preparation containing an insect growth regulator which gives protection against fly strike for up to 3 months Or fly free can be used weekly. Dirty bottoms in pet rabbits can be greatly reduced with correct feeding, but if your pet suffers with these condition then steps must be taken to protect them from this life threatening problem. | Fly Guard-use every 3 m
| Fly Free- Used weekly | | Uterine cancer is a common cause of death in female rabbits (does), which can often spread to other organs before it is diagnosed. This can be prevented by spaying (neutering) if the rabbit is not intended for breeding and is best done when the rabbit is between 5 months and 2 years of age. Neutering also means no un-wanted litters, and no mood swings with pairs of rabbits living together better. I do offer a neutering service for my bunnies, please e-mail me for details. Return to index | Rabbits are happier together when neutered. |
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 | Neutering Rabbits |  | Rabbits become adolescent from 10-16 weeks of age, and at this time they tend to become moody and restless. They start to become more aggressive towards other rabbits and people, and also become less reliable where litter training is concerned. Both males and females may treat a family member of the opposite sex as a surrogate mate, following and circling that person and trying to mate their arms or legs. In male rabbits, courtship can include nipping the surrogate mate.
Neutering is one of the best things you can do for your rabbit. It will ease or illuminate these problems without changing your rabbit’s personality. Your bunny will not realize that anything has changed but the pet will become happier and more relaxed. Neutered rabbits are easier to litter train and their urine and droppings will become less smelly.
Female rabbits should be neutered when they reach 5-6 months old and male bunnies can be neutered as soon as the testicles have descended at around 3-4 months of age. Spaying your female rabbit is extremely important because as many as 85% of adult does die of reproductive cancers if they are not neutered.
It is important to realize that the changes in behaviour associated with sexual maturity do not suddenly disappear - female rabbits take a couple of months to generally calm down, and male bunnies may continue to spray for a few months after being neutered.
Not all aggression is caused by hormones.
Neutering is particularly important if you have more than one rabbit. It will of course prevent unwanted pregnancy, and make it possible for two or more rabbits to live happily together. A neutered pair of bunnies can form a strong bond and often spend a lot of time huddling together and grooming each other. Two bunnies who have grown together (even siblings) can suddenly become hostile and very aggressive towards each other. This can result in serious injury to one or both of the rabbits, and them losing the bond they had forever. Neutering both rabbits can prevent this happening, providing it is done early enough. Neutering after the event may help but there is no guarantee that their friendship will be restored.
Many facts of your rabbit’s sexuality will remain post neutering, but in a gentler more subdued form. The extent of the sexual activity really depends on your rabbit’s personality before neutering. Many neutered rabbits retain a certain amount of sexual interest and may continue some courting behaviour - a spayed doe is more tolerant of a buck’s advances than an un-spayed doe will be. Some rabbits lose all interest in sexual activity but their need for cuddles and affection, from humans and play mates alike, remains the same.
Pre Operation Care
No preparation is needed prior to operation. Give your rabbit food and water as normal, starvation is not required, as rabbits cannot vomit.
Post Operation Care
Make sure your rabbit is eating, drinking, urinating and defecating within a couple of hours of surgery. If your rabbit does not eat/drink/poo/pee within a few hours contact your vet. Bio Plus added to your bunny's water just before their operation and continued for a week afterwards can boost their natural gut bacteria. Return to index
| I do offer a neutering service for my bunnies, please e-mail me for details.
| |
 | Grooming your pet Rabbit |  | Coat Care: When you handle your bunny run your hand over its body to feel for any mats or knots. Daily petting/stroking will remove any lose fur and allow you to bond with your pet a soft brush can be used to aid with the petting. Different breeds of rabbits will require a different level of grooming with slightly different types of brushes and combs. When your rabbit is moulting it will require more grooming by you to help remove the dead coat, a Slicker brush is very good for this. A comb is ideal for inside the back legs and around the bottom area.
Long haired rabbits that are bedded on woodshavings will soon get into a mess and will need to be checked and groomed daily. I use “My Flax” with a layer of soft chopped straw for my Lionheads as I find that it does not get caught up in the coat thus allowing me to groom them weekly instead of daily. Short haired rabbits are good at keeping their fur clean and tidy, so you don't need to bother brushing them everyday but you do still need to check them.
| | | | Bottom Care: If you are feeding your bunny correctly it will keep its bottom nice and clean, if you trained your bunny to turn in your arms a quick daily check will be sufficient. If your bunny is a little sticky down below, ease the worse off with baby wipes, then cover with a dry shampoo, rubbing in to the damp soiled areas, and then gently comb the powder and poo out. If your bunny is in a real mess, then you may have to rinse the bottom under a warm running tap or wash in a shallow bowl, do not get the whole bunny wet. Then dry with a towel and use the powder and comb through, do not make your bunny sore. In the winter months the rabbit will have to stay indoors. You then need to think what have you changed that could of upset your bunny. You may need to remove all the bunnies' food just leaving hay for the rabbit to nibble on, until the rabbit is producing hard poo. Bio Plus in the water will increase the beneficial bacteria in the bunny's tummy. Make sure your rabbit is drinking. If there is no change and the rabbit is still getting messy please consult your vet.
Remember Diarrhoea can kill.
Use the Fly Guard if your rabbit regular suffers with a messy bum.
| Dry Shampoo | | Diarrhoea Drops | Toe Nail Care: Rabbits need their nails/claws trimmed regularly, Rabbits have constantly growing nails, and if they are left to grow unchecked, they can lead to health problems and pain for your rabbit. If you're new to rabbit keeping, you may find that clipping the nails is a scary proposition. You don't want to hit the nerve and make your darling rabbit bleed. If you have trained your bunny from a young age to lay over in your arms then toe nail cutting is not a daunting task. If your pet is not used to being handled then you could be entering into a battle with a tiny creature that isn't afraid to hurt you or its self.
Get the nail clippers. Turn the Bunny gently in your arms, If you got the bunny from me I would have shown and explained to you how to do this. If your bunny is on the large side then they can be laid on your lap whilst you sit on the floor, slide the bunny down between your legs so it is well supported by them. With the four offending items sticking up in the air, Carefully clip the tip of the nail; do not go too far along the length of the nail, even if it has grown a little long. Unless the nerve is very clearly visible, which is often not the case with rabbits that have darker claws, you must be careful. Trim back slowly, taking a little at a time. On a dark nailed bunny just cut what is shown beyond the fur line of the foot. If you accidentally go too deep and cut the quick, dip a cotton swab in styptic powder, like Trimmex and dab it against the bleeding nail to stop the blood flow.
If in any doubt then please get your Vet to cut your bunnies toe nails, or show you how.
|  | The type I use. | Four in one handy set
 
| | Teeth Care: Teeth should be checked monthly for any problems. Providing you have a healthy bunny from day one, when buying or re-homing a bunny always check its teeth before committing to it. If it is a rabbit from me, I will show you the rabbits teeth and how to check them. Most problems are either down to incorrect feeding, or an injury. Provided your bunny with plenty of hay and grasses in their diet with rabbit food kept at a minimum. Provided your bunny with wood and toys to chew, if your rabbit keeps pulling and chewing at the bars of their cage, provided more simulation or out time to discourage this behaviour as this can damage the alignment of the rabbit's teeth.
For more info click here.
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| This Bark cover hay rack encourages chewing, as well as a great place to keep hay fresh. | Eye Care: Sometimes rabbits get sleep in their eyes. Just wipe this away for them. If there is excess gunk or a lot of tears, your bunny may have a problem. A rabbit's eye can become diseased or infected just like any other body part.
Here are some of the conditions you need to watch for:
Blocked tear ducts: Can be caused by dental problems, inflammation, and other sources that can clog your bunny's tear ducts. The tears, instead of draining out, overflow and leave wet areas around the eye. Until the duct are open, which may take several visits to the vet, gently wipe your bunny's affected eye several times a day to remove the sticky salty tears, then dry carefully.
Myxomatosis: one of the first signs of this horrible disease is swollen eyes discharging sticky goo.
If after a few days of you treating your rabbit's eyes by bathing or creams if there is no improvement, please consult your vet. | | | |
| | |
 Lap Trainning: | | I’m a firm believer in training bunnies, just like you would a dog. I think it stems from the hours that I have spent getting my Show bunnies to sit just how I like them to on the show table.
Lap training is the same but a lot less formal and certainly much more fun than training a rabbit for a show.
It is best to start the bunny and new owner straight away with the idea of a snuggle bed and lap training, if you are getting the bunny from me, I will run through how as well as being there for your practice run with your new bunny.
The snuggle beds come in different shapes and sizes as well as different colours. So there is one for everyone and every bunny whether a Dwarf or a Giant, and best still they are all machine washable, great for those mishaps.
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One of My Show Lions | | The bed is a training aid and must not be used any other time than snuggle time. Do not allow your bunny to get in and out at free will or they will never sit still.
Some bunnies will happily sit in their beds being petted for hours others 5 minutes maximum, you are not going to know what type of bunny you have till you get started, but remember keep it fun, don’t force the bunny and don’t annoy him, or you will see a devil rather than a cute bunny.
If the bunny is a pet for a child, snuggle bed training must be under supervisor until you are confident that both child and bunny are happy. | | 
| - Get your child to sit down.
- Place the snuggle bed on their lap and place bunny in it, talking softly to your bunny, to get him to relax; (the bed will make children more confident about handerling their pet as there is a pad between them and Bun.)
- With the bunny in the bed show your child how to stroke or brush it, treats can be fed to the bunny as a reward for being good, but not too many.
- Start with 5 minute sessions building up if your bunny is happy.
- If they start to dig or bite the bed this is an indication that they have had enough, turn the bunny around in the bed stroking it for a further few minutes, tell the bunny how good they are then put the rabbit back in its cage or to have a hop around.
- Do not put the bunny down as soon as they misbehave or they will soon learn what to do to get their own way.
- A little and often, is the key. Return to index
| Toffee & Miss Stanley
Hello Dee, A big thank you
for such a lovely bunny,
he was very calm when he arrived
and has bonded really well with my
daughter he interacts with her so well
The bed for young children to have on there lap is fantastic
Regards Nicola Stanley
| Pumpkin's Treat Box | |
Treat Training your Bunny?
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What are the advantages to treat training your bunny.
• A rabbit that comes when it is called
• No more chasing them to put them away.
• Easier to get them in their travelling cage
• Interactive fun for the bunny and owner
• The bunny being a member of the family, and not
“Just the rabbit”. Rabbits are very intelligent and eagerly respond to incentives.
If you use these incentives correctly, most rabbits will respond accordingly. | Please notice us......
Three baby Mini Lops
already coming to the front of the cage for attention. | So start from day one,
if you have a two storey hutch block the downstairs section off to begin with, if you are having a house bunny restrict the bunny to the indoor cage only.
1. As you approach your bunnies’ cage, call their name, open the door and try to get the bunny to hop towards you for a treat, you can pick their favourite bits out of their food or use dried fruit or little pieces of toast/hard baked bread. Gently stroke the bunny, talking very softly then start hand feeding. Do this every time you go to the cage to begin with, don’t pick bunny up every time or they won’t come towards you. You need to get their trust and become friends. Once they start hopping toward you start missing some of the treats out replacing with a stroke or head rub. The bunny is then ready to move to the next stage. The bottom level of the hutch can be opened up for the rabbit to have access 24/7 or for the house bunny the door remove from the indoor cage with a playpen attached to the front when you are about to supervise them. | 
"Hello" | 
Blossom following a treat.
| 2. Let your rabbit exercise daily but before your rabbit is trained, I suggest having a small confined space to allow them to hop aroundin. Do not chase them or this can un-do all of your hutch training work.
3. To teach your rabbit to come when they are out of their cage. It is best to start with a playpen either to the front of your hutch/ indoor cage. Outside bunnies can use the pen indoors but in the winter months do not get them to hot before returning them to their hutch. | Do not let children
chase the bunny
or they will never be friends. | 4. You will need to get down on the floor with your rabbit, not too far away. Hold out a treat for your rabbit and use the command " rabbits name, come". As your rabbit moves towards the treat, slowly pull it back a little bit, then allow the rabbit to take it. Repeat this routine every day, getting a little further away, every 2-3 days. By the end of 1-2 weeks, you should be able to squat on the floor from several feet away and have your rabbit come to you. Your rabbit will see or smell the treat and will come toward you to get it. They don’t know that you are calling them yet as they have not figured this part out, but if you repeat this routine over and over, they will start to associate hearing you call their name and "Come!" with getting their favourite treat. Some rabbits catch on more quickly than others. Just remember to keep it fun, and praise your bunny verbal as well as using the treats. Don’t try and rush the training as some bunnies take a lot longer than others and you don’t want to frighten them. As they get better and better increase the amount of space they are allowed to have.
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Blossom training with Pumpkin's treat box.
Her Fav......... | |
| 5. Training Your Rabbit to Go in their Cage or Carry box.
Can save you the headache of chasing them around when you’re ready to put them away or for getting them in their carry cage for a visit to the vets or holiday. Start by having the door to your rabbit's cage open. Place your rabbit fairly close to the opening of their cage. Reach into the top opening with a treat in your hand and hold it right at the opening of the bunnies’ door. Use the command “rabbits name, & IN ", as your rabbit goes for the treat slowly pull it back, drawing your rabbit into the cage. When your rabbit is completely in the cage, give them the treat. Once your rabbit has mastered this step you will also need to use the "come command" when you're ready to put them away. You should call your rabbit to come to you so that they are within a close range of their cage. Then use the "IN" command to have them go in their cage. ALWAYS give your rabbit a treat or feed them when you put them in their cage. |  Ruby..... on her way home. |  |  |  | I prefer top opening carriers for bunnies. | 6. Another good trick (and one that will impress visitors) is sitting up/begging on command. This trick is pretty easy because rabbits naturally sit up on their hind legs all the time.
• Start when your rabbit has all four feet on the floor.
• Put your hand above their head with the treat in your fingers.
• "Say your rabbit's name & UP!"
• When your rabbit rises up on their hind legs to get the treat, give them the treat and some verbal praise.
• This can then be moved forward by getting the bunny to follow whilst walking on two legs for the treats, we call this “the Penguin Walk.”
• Start eliminating the treats. One time give them a treat, next time don't. Eventually you will only have to say your rabbits name with the command and your rabbit will respond.
In conclusion, always remember to verbally praise your rabbit when they respond to your commands. You must use these commands with your rabbit on a regular basis or they could forget what you have taught them and you would need to start all over again. Return to index.
| 
Blossom- "Penguin walking"
|   | Bunny Agility
|  | | Once you have your Bunny coming towards you and following you for treats, then your bunny is ready to start to train to "Bunny Hop" or Bunny Agility. You will need to get your bunny used to wearing a harness. Start by letting your bunny wear the harness without the lead being clipped on, when bunny is happy with this, clip the lead section on and get the bunny to walk with you for treats. It is important that the harness is the correct size. There are different styles available, I personal prefer the walk and vest type, I find that these are more comfortable for the bunny as the Vest fits all around the body reducing "pull" under their front and hind legs, evenly distributing the pressure when the lead is pulled. They come in four modern fashion colours, and four sizes, and best still they are easy to clean. | |  |  |  |  | 
| | Extra-Large | Large | Medium | Small | | | j | | With your Bunny happily wearing their harness and comfortable walking on the lead, you are now ready to start your Agility training and your rabbit jumping the jumps.
Ready, Steady-----------Jump
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| - Walk the rabbit up to a low jump. Like the Bunny Hop 1, and let the bunny sniff it.
- Say the word "jump" or “Over” and give the rabbit a slight gentle boost over the jump....praise and give the rabbit a little piece of treat.
| Bunny Hop 1
| - Repeat this stage of training until the rabbit will walk up to and jump over the low jump.
- After the rabbit is doing well at a low jump add another jump the Bunny Hop 2 or another Bunny Hop 1 about 4 ft behind the first jump. Make the second jump a bit higher
| Bunny Hop 2
| - Take the rabbit over the first jump and up to the second jump. Say "jump" or “Over” to the rabbit as it approaches the second jump. If the rabbit jumps it, praise and treat the rabbit. If the rabbit does not jump the second jump, give it a slight boost as you say "jump". Or “Over”
- Then add the Bunny Hop 3 or another Bunny Hop 1 or 2.
| Bunny Hop 3-
| - Gradually add the bars on to the Bunny Hops making them higher as your bunny gets more confident and better at jumping. These jumps have break away rungs for the safety of the rabbit if it does not jump high enough or if it hesitates in the air and hits the jump the poles will fall to the floor.
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 | - Tunnels, Weave Polls, Platforms and Seesaws can also be added to your Agility course to make it as much fun for your bunny as possible.
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| Remember keep it fun, don’t overdo the amount of time jumping and don’t shout at your bunny.
Special offer Buy a set of three jumps and get a free Harness. |  | | | Bunnies in Action on "You Tube" Below. Click the View Button..........
| Bunny Jumping Sites: | Bradford Show 2011 | Bunnies having fun
| Bradford show 2010 | 
Click here. | More Bradford 2011 | Danish Champ 2010
| Danish Champ 2009
| "Rabbit hopping in Denmark"
Click here.
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| A quick guide on what to do when you get your new Rabbit/s home.
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